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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.